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The Standout Collections from New York Fashion Week

Posted on February 20th 2014 by

New York Fashion Week begins fashion month while setting the pace for London, Milan, and Paris fashion week to follow. This time around it seemed that designers kept things relatively simple, instead of working around a more complicated concept as in past seasons. Coziness emerged as a key fall 2014 theme early on during New York fashion week, tapping into the current trend that has become a fashion pack favorite, known as the mannish coat; as predicted there were multiple collections full of oversize outerwear. By day three Phoebe Philo’s trickle-down effect was already apparent from Céline’s past seasons: the coat of the season and white turtlenecks from fall 2011 collection, or at least a knock-off thereof, fall 2012’s blocks of color and the rolled clutches from spring 2013. If you didn’t already have your eye on at least one of these sartorial pieces from the french house then, you most certainly will now. 

Whether it was a surplus layers topped with shearling or the severe thigh-high boots and knee-high mules at Alexander Wang, sultry crimson shades at Prabal Gurung, to Proenza Schouler’s ode to the new working girl with the strong shoulders, architectural shapes and flat shoes that we should thank them for figuring out how to make flat shoes remotely sexy again. There’s so much to think about from the New York shows and multiple trends that will have an impact on our closets come next fall if they haven’t already. Case in point, the wearable minimal ensembles at Tibi, that consisted of updated modern signatures such as, faded denim, pinstripe suiting, oversize silhouettes, and the mannish lace ups; which is what we are all basically wearing right now. Including the vaguely Amish brimmed hats, that added a sharp finish to the softer looks, and elegant chained purses paired with casual looks seen at Phillip Lim didn’t go unnoticed.

Meanwhile across the pond during Milan fashion week at Max Mara, tweed, plaid, and herringbone introduced clever detailing to the traditional mannish silhouettes, was similar to what we’ve seen during the New York shows. The vibrant shade of lichen green, which isn’t an easy color to pull off. Although, they made a striking case for it with an ensemble that combined a trompe l’oeil blazer with the waistcoat built in, an elongated pull-over and below the knee tube skirt. Coats were of course the focus at this show, but next fall Max Mara with be the go to resource for a great looking oversize sweater and pencil skirt, too. 
Photos via
From top to bottom: 3.1 Phillip Lim (1-12), Alexander Wang (13-20), Derek Lam (21-28), Max Mara (29-34), Narciso Rodriguez (35-38), Prabal Gurung (39-46), Proenza Schouler (47-56), Rosie Assoulin (57-60), The Row (61-66), Tibi (67-72). 

Key shapes included, clean turtlenecks-often layered under a sweater or a coat, cropped jackets, luxe coats with soft slightly rounded shoulders and crisp looking crew neck tops as seen at Derek Lam and Phillip Lim. The collections this season consisted mostly of neutrals, with a few color-blocked pieces in shades of brown, red, and forest green had an especially large presence throughout the week. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, were clearly anticipating the Polar Vortex based off the cowl-neck cashmere sweaters and matching asymmetric hand skirts that started the show. Of course, The Row woman doesn’t wait for a change in weather to wear the world’s finest fabrics. 

Judging by this season and my thoughts thus far from New York Fashion Week and well into Milan Fashion Week, either we all need a bigger closets or less clothes.

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